Masters of the Air Type B-3 available now

Leather jacket styles

Since the invention of the leather jacket, every decade has been marked by a particular style.

In this blog, we will explore how leather jacket styles have changed over the past 100 years and discuss which cultural moments influenced these changes.

 

Early 1900s

The earliest leather jacket styles were designed purely for practical reasons. These jackets were long coats worn by dispatch riders, open top motorists and pilots who spent their time in uninsulated open cockpits. These early leather jackets were later known as 'bomber' and 'flight' jackets for this reason.

 

1920s + 1930s

As technology improved and aircraft travelled further and higher than ever before, there came a demand for warm, weatherproof jackets that were not as bulky as the designs worn in the early 20th century. Our own Barnstormer design was inspired by the aviation jackets of this era.

Barnstormer Leather Jacket

Pictured: Aero's Barnstormer jacket.

Back down on the ground, the leather jackets that people were wearing in the 1920s and 30s tended towards a classic slim fit: high armholes, button-fastened cuffs, waist adjustments and a checked cotton lining. For a classic 1920s fit, check out our Aeromarine jacket; or if you're looking for a 1930s style, our 1930s Half Belt is an Aero classic!

 

Aeromarine and 1930s Half Belt Jackets

Pictured: Aero's Aeromarine (left) and 1930s Half Belt (right) leather jackets.

 

1940s

During the Second World War, technology continued to develop and planes were able to fly to new heights where temperatures dropped below zero. To help pilots stay warm, American aviator Leslie Irvin designed the Irvin flying jacket. Made from heavyweight sheepskin, this jacket provided excellent insulation and soon became synonymous with Britain’s airborne war effort.

As the war continued, resources became scarcer and the amount of panelling in the flight jackets had to increase to prevent wastage of valuable materials. This is why our three authentic recreation RAF jackets (Pre-War, Battle of Britain and Late WW2) share the same cut and design but have increasingly complex panel configurations!

 

Aero authentic rereation RAF jackets

Pictured: RAF Pre-War, RAF Battle of Britain and RAF Late WW2 jackets.

Across the pond, the USAAF Type A-2 leather flying jacket was undoubtedly the most popular garment ever issued to aviators. First standardised in 1931, it became a classic during its long service life and remained in use long after WW2, despite discontinuation in April 1943.

Major John C Egan's Type B-3 Jacket

Callum Turner playing Major John C. Egan in Masters of the Air. His jacket (Major John C Egan's Type B-3) was made by Aero; it's a faithful recreation of the flight jacket worn by the real-life John C. Egan.

From midway through WW2, extreme leather shortages hit, leading manufacturers to try to squeeze as many jackets out of their leather as possible. This meant that marks and scars were unavoidable, and no care was taken to match grain from panel to panel. Our ‘Real Deal’ A-2 Jacket was cut to reflect manufacturing styles at this time.

 

The Real Deal A-2 Jacket

Pictured: USAAF Type A-2: Aero Contract No. 42-15142-P 'Real Deal'.

 

1950s

Post WW2, there was no need to cut leather jackets short and neat to preserve raw materials, so by the 1950s, longer leather jackets like our Long Half Belt became the norm. It was also during this time period that a new jacket style emerged. A cross between an early flight jacket and a motorcycle jacket, our Bootlegger design replicates the classic styles worn in 1950s America.

 

Long half belt and bootlegger jacket

Pictured: Aero's Long Half Belt (left) and Bootlegger (right).

Heavy horsehide leather motorcycle jackets were a much-loved favourite with police departments throughout the USA in the 40s and into the 50s. It was in this time period that the fit of leather jackets became more relaxed, at least in the shoulders and chest, and studded lapels began to gain popularity. However, jackets from the 1940s and 50s like our Indian Ranger and C.H.I.P.S Police Jacket still featured a strong taper at the waist, typical of a motorcycle jacket.

 

Aero's Indian Ranger and C.H.I.P.S Police Jacket

Pictured: Aero's Indian Ranger (left) and C.H.I.P.S Police Jacket (right).

In the 1950s, leather jackets made their way onto the silver screen in films like The Wild One and Rebel Without a Cause. These film appearances pushed leather jackets into the limelight as a symbol of rebellion for young people, and sales skyrocketed as a result.

Marlon Brando

Marlon Brando in 1953's The Wild One. Image source: Flickr (public domain).

Then, in the 1960s, rock stars like Elvis Presley and The Beatles adopted the fashion, and leather jackets became associated with rock and roll just as much as with bikers.

 

The Present Day

Leather jackets continued to be a staple fashion item for men and women throughout the 70s, 80s and 90s and remain an incredibly popular style choice today. However, at Aero Leathers, we believe that the most enduring designs are the timeless jackets from the 1920s to the late 1950s which is why we exclusively manufacture classic designs from these time periods.

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